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Why Syrah’s Time is Now

Syrah was our first love at Donelan Family Wines. From a winegrower’s, winemaker’s, and wine-lover’s perspective, it over-delivers in every category and Sonoma Syrah competes with any Napa Cabernet or French red blend. (Did you know we’ve earned four 100-point scores? All four of them have been Sonoma Syrahs.) Yet, it’s still not a top-of-mind varietal for many American oenophiles. We think Syrah deserves better—more press and more love— and everyone else is starting to think the same. In this blog, we’ll talk about Syrah as a varietal, why it often flies under the radar, and how it measures up to your favorite reds.

A Little Background on Syrah

Syrah originated in the Rhône region of France, where it has remained a very popular wine for centuries. In fact, some of the most famous European wines ever made are Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage Syrahs. They’ve had a reputation for perfection dating back to the 1700s. (Fun Fact: Thomas Jefferson was a huge fan.)

In the 1900s, Syrah started falling behind in the international rankings, though it never lost its footing in the Old World. France and Spain, along with Australia and South Africa, continue to grow and celebrate Syrah as a popular wine. Syrah varies drastically depending on where it’s grown. Generally, it has a fuller body, big tannin, silky smooth structure, dark fruit flavors, and savory complexity.

 

In the 1980s and 90s there was an exciting cult movement of Californians planting Syrah, the winegrowers even being called “Rhône Rangers”. California Syrahs, specifically Sonoma Syrahs like ours, can be quite similar to Rhône-grown Syrahs. The terroir at Donelan’s vineyard sites is rocky and steep with cold nights, foggy mornings, and warm summer days. We produce bold, brooding, savory Syrahs that will age beyond a decade. Syrah is also a preferred varietal for blending. We use it to create our Cuvée Moriah, which, depending on the vintage, is a mix of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvedre.

 

California isn’t the only state producing great Syrah. Washington State’s Walla Walla Valley has also developed a strong Syrah region over the years. Oregon and even Arizona are making notable Syrah. So what gives? Why has the United States been so slow to get on the Syrah wave?

 

 

Why is Syrah a Niche Red Wine?

To be clear, Syrah is not completely unknown or rare in America, it’s just been stuck in a cult-following phase for a long time. The best way to describe Syrah lovers is with the mottos “if you know, you know” or “those who get it, get it.”  Meaning, people who “get” Syrah absolutely love it. But the everyday American wine-drinker still overlooks Syrah for four main reasons, all of which are compliments to the wine itself.

1. Syrah tends to be more expensive

One of the simplest explanations is that good Syrah is not cheap. The typical American wine drinker is more likely to buy an inexpensive familiar varietal like Pinot or Cabernet. This brings us to the next point: although Syrah is grown domestically, many Americans still perceive it as an ‘exotic’ wine, which can feel intimidating. Education is a huge part of the wine industry and even though it can take time, it’s rewarding. Curious wine drinkers who choose to explore Syrah quickly understand why it’s such a special wine and worth every penny.

 

2. Syrah requires a lot of skill to grow and make

The underlying reason why Syrah is more expensive and viewed as avant-garde is because it requires tremendous expertise to grow and make. Syrah is a varietal that we describe as “terroir-transparent”, meaning it’s extremely reflective of the spot it’s planted in and how it’s grown, and of course, Syrah likes being in the most uncomfortable of homes. It prefers rocky, hilly, mountainous blocks of earth. Logistically, planting and taking care of this type of vineyard is difficult. Machinery and crews work on steep inclines, by hand, for hours and hours, all season. Even getting up to the vineyard can be a trek. (A perfect example is our Cardiac Hill Syrah. It’s all in the name.)

 

3. Crops are smaller

In those rugged vineyards, the vines will strain for nutrients and produce small, super-concentrated berries, meaning your harvest is high-quality but small. Small yield means fewer bottles produced, but there’s magic in those bottles!

4. Production time is longer

A fine Syrah requires barrel aging anywhere from 12-36 months. Donelan Syrah ages between 20-36 months. Extended time in barrel is what creates the signature gorgeous, polished tannin in Syrah. Without it, you would have a harsh, astringent wine.

 

All this to say that Syrah is not a wine you can simply plant wherever, farm however, mass-produce, then quickly sell. Most wineries and winemakers lack the property, the skilled knowledge, or the passion to make good Syrah. It’s a serious labor of love, which is great news for Syrah drinkers. If you’re spending money on a nice bottle of Syrah, you can trust that it was made with incredible care.

The Best Qualities of Syrah

If Syrah is difficult to make and harder to market, why make it a pillar of your business? Joe Donelan fell in love with Syrah in the 80s and developed a deep appreciation for Old World Syrah from the Rhône Valley. He was struck by how it expresses terroir in a way that no other wine can touch. Soon, Joe was on a journey to find the most interesting and remarkable vineyard sites for growing Sonoma Syrah. He often describes our Syrah as an “iron fist in a velvet glove.” They’re strong and powerful, and at the same time incredibly elegant and silky smooth.

Individuality

Did you know that Syrah fruit grown on different vines in the same vineyard can create two wines with entirely different flavor profiles? Not only that, but climate and weather conditions change every vintage. So a warm drought year will have a very strong effect on a cool climate Syrah. This is also why skilled Syrah winemaking is so necessary. Winemaker David Milner has to be prepared to adapt to whatever gets thrown our way, to continue making the best Syrah possible. And it shows in every vintage we produce. 

Flavor and Depth

At Donelan, we love how savory and complex Sonoma Syrah can be. It has lovely fruit layers like plums, blackberries, and blueberries. But beyond that, you can find notes of olive, black truffle, dark chocolate, mesquite barbecue, soy sauce, grilled meats, gunpowder, and leatherbound books. It’s a wine that’s so nuanced and often sets a scene. The nose of a Syrah can transport you to a dusty, earthy barn filled with well-oiled tools and fresh-cut wood, a breeze carrying the smell of ripe plums through the window. The extreme darkness and full-bodied qualities of Syrah make it a phenomenal wine for food pairings, particularly with a hearty or spicy red meat dish or even a lavish charcuterie board.

Syrah Compared to Other Red Wines

If you’re loyal to a popular red wine like Cabernet but curious about Syrah, we highly recommend doing a blind tasting at home. These days, many people are growing tired of big, bold, heavy reds that just taste like alcohol. They overwhelm both your palate and your meal. If you’re feeling the same way, Syrah can be your answer. To give you a clearer picture of the differences, here’s a list of the most popular red wines compared to Syrah.

Syrah vs. Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet tends to have a less fruit-forward profile than Syrah. You may get cherries or berries, but the dominant flavors will be herbal and mineral. Both wines have famously big tannin, but Syrah will have a more integrated, velvety mouthfeel whereas Cabernet will be more structured. Both wines will age for 15+ years, but you can usually start drinking Syrah at a younger age than Cabernet. In general, Syrah is not as intense or heavy as Cabernet, but it has a more complex personality that fans crave.

Syrah vs. Pinot Noir

Syrah is full-bodied whereas Pinot Noir is light to medium-bodied with less tannin. Pinot Noir tends to be red-fruited (cherries, strawberry, cranberry) as opposed to Syrah’s dark black and blue fruits. Pinot also has an oaky spice to it that’s not common in Syrah.

Syrah vs. Merlot

Merlot, Syrah, and common Red Burgundies can have similar fruit notes like plum and blackberry, but Merlot is a much softer wine with less savory qualities. It’s medium-bodied with more delicate tannin, making it an easier drinking varietal.

Syrah vs. Zinfandel

Zinfandel is big on sweet berry flavors like strawberry jam or ripe raspberry preserves. It has very calm tannin compared to Syrah.

 

The Future of American and Sonoma Syrah is Bright

The newer generations of wine-drinkers have arrived and they’re looking for what’s unique. They want wines that are hand-crafted, small production, interesting to talk about, and packed with flavor, not just alcohol. Syrah is quickly replacing their parents’ Cabernet on the wine list.

Syrah hits every mark: fruity, savory, big tannin but smooth texture, built for lengthy cellar time but ready to drink young. American Syrah has hit a phenomenal stride in the past 10 years, with Sonoma County wineries producing Syrahs that consistently earn top scores and rival any Côte-Rôtie.

As with everything in the wine world, Syrah has taken time to catch on in the US. Now, the momentum is here and gaining. So next time you’re at a restaurant or the liquor store, go for a bottle of Syrah. Better yet, get a bottle of Donelan. It would be an honor to convert you to a Sonoma Syrah lover! You can shop all of our Syrahs here.